SmaylaRoad & trail journals

Abroad · June 2024

Florida and New York, from mangroves to skyscrapers

A Florida we would never have set foot in without a good family reason. Verdict: pleasantly surprised. A week from the Atlantic coast to the Keys by way of the Everglades, then three days walking New York.

When
June 2024
Stops
St Augustine · Everglades · Keys · New York
Highlight
The mangrove tunnels
Encounter
Charlie the alligator
The famous palm tree at sunset

Daytona and St Augustine

The Atlantic coast

A first day of discoveries, following the coast from Daytona and its wide beaches. Then St Augustine: love at first sight. The town is wonderfully charming as soon as you step into the street behind, among balconied houses, shady lanes and the old Spanish fort.

A superb building, built to be a hotel, hides behind its palms and fountain. Honestly? Pleasantly surprised.

Daytona Beach
Emmanuelle in the Daytona surf
A balconied house in St Augustine
The old Spanish fort of St Augustine
A lane in St Augustine
A house hidden in the greenery
The grand building meant to be a hotel
Its courtyard and palm trees

Crystal River

Spanish moss and turquoise water

No manatees, but a pretty butterfly instead. We fall in love with the trees draped in Spanish moss around our little bungalow in Crystal River: when we go to Florida, we pick the most unlikely spots.

A dreamy little natural pool of turquoise water, honestly not retouched. The manatees come back in winter, when the ocean gets too cool.

A monarch butterfly on a palm
Spanish-moss trees at Crystal River
The natural pool at Crystal River
Emmanuelle and Christian by the spring
Turquoise water, not retouched

The Gulf coast

Clearwater, Dalí and Siesta Key

A stop in Clearwater, its rows of parasols and a deliciously air-conditioned drink. Then a little culture, on a recommendation: the Dalí Museum in Saint Petersburg. The building alone is worth the detour; you are plunged straight into Dalí's world, and in the cool.

The night on Siesta Key, more touristy than we imagined, but with the first swim of the holiday under the mocking eye of a pelican.

The blue parasols of Clearwater
Green chairs under the palms
The spiral staircase of the Dalí Museum
The museum's glass dome
A pelican above Siesta Key

The Everglades

Mangroves, alligators and monsoon

Off to the Everglades: a ride through the mangrove tunnels, simply magical, with the opening at the end before entering the next tunnel, then a second ride across the grassland. Total wonder. Charlie was waiting for us, faithful, a fine male, and his female treated us to a little dance. No desire to jump in there.

For the last buggy ride in the swamps, fifteen minutes of tropical rain on a roofless vehicle: the heavens literally open over our heads. The critters get their soaking too, the vultures dry off on the roof, and straight afterwards thousands of mosquitoes arrive. An evening in an Everglades City empty of tourists, a pretty spot full of character with an impressive City Hall, and a night in a typical motel.

A mangrove tunnel
The opening at the end of the tunnel
Charlie the alligator
His female in the water
An alligator among the roots
Emmanuelle and Christian soaked
A crocodile after the rain
Vultures drying their wings on a roof
Christian, a little comfort indoors
Everglades City
Everglades City Hall

Coral Gables and the Keys

Bougainvillea and flame trees

A quick visit to Coral Gables, a lovely neighbourhood of magnificent tree-lined avenues, green, in bloom and beautifully residential. Then Islamorada, the moon lighting up the evening, and a hotel full of charm far from the modern resorts, with its seafront and its little private harbour where iguanas bask in the morning.

At the Beach Café, a tropical evening and its famous palm tree, with immense luck with the weather. Between bougainvillea and flame trees, the heart hardly hesitates. Christian, on his little jetty, watches the mangrove form and decides we'll have to come back… or think about it.

A tree-lined avenue in Coral Gables
Coral Gables, green and in bloom
The moon over Islamorada
The hotel's little harbour by moonlight
The hotel by the water
The coloured chairs of the Beach Café
The famous palm tree at sunset
Sunset over the Keys
Bougainvillea
Flame tree in bloom
A path of flame trees
Christian on the mangrove jetty
Palm trees by the sea

New York

A first time

New York, a first for Christian, who loved it. We walked, walked a lot, and found corners that aren't all famous but are oh so charming. We went up to the top of the Edge twice, turned back by lightning the first day: that view!

The Manhattan Bridge, the Brooklyn Bridge, not alone but it could have been worse, and Little Island, a little gem. Near Chelsea, Swiss flags catch our eye: an unlikely bit of Lavaux in the middle of Greenwich Village. Then Ground Zero, the emotion, and a last look at the skyline. In short: we loved it.

A rabbit in a New York garden
A curious squirrel
The Statue of Liberty and a fireboat
Emmanuelle and Christian in front of a mural
Manhattan from the top of the Edge
Christian on the glass floor
Christian facing the Manhattan Bridge
Christian on the Brooklyn Bridge
Christian on Little Island
Midtown towers from above
Sunset at the end of an avenue
Under the Brooklyn Bridge
The Empire State Building
One World Trade Center and the memorial
A last sunset over the city