SmaylaRoad & trail journals

On foot · Þakgil, Iceland · August 2025

The big Þakgil loop

A hike Christian had been talking about for months, in its long version, the one that doesn't really leave a choice. More than 18 kilometres and a good 1,000 metres of climbing, among canyons, plateaus and glacier. Hard, but rarely have we seen such a show.

Date
August 2025
Distance
18 km
Elevation gain
1,000 m
Waterfall below the glacier

The route · indicative

The climb

The canyon and the glacier

We wake under a sky that is blue, really blue. A playful start with two fords to cross, then the climb into splendour. From the hut it goes straight up a grassy slope, not one to try in wet weather, and there are passages where your mind has to be your friend, with 400 metres of drop on each side.

We look down into a magnificent canyon with the glacier at the end. Three sheep look at the camera, then turn their backs just as it clicks. And as a gift, a little arctic fox. From small summit to small summit, facing the immensity.

Valley and river under a blue sky
The valley from above
Three sheep facing the canyon
A little arctic fox
Christian from small summit to small summit
Christian on the path
Waterfall below the glacier
Christian in front of the glacier
Waterfalls and glacier cliffs
Emmanuelle and Christian facing the glacier
A refill of pure water

The return

The descent

A refill of pure water from a stream, glowing mosses, and a sea of clouds at whose edge we walk. Here the climbs go straight up, then up and down again with vast plains in between.

Immensity in its simplest form, a rock arch, a last gentle plateau, then the steep descent, which has to be handled by trusting yourself. Down there, the goal. Phew, we're getting close: once again, veni, vidi, vici.

At the edge of the clouds
The glacier and the mosses
Immensity
The canyon and its mosses
Emmanuelle, determined
Christian facing the glacier
Before the descent
Down there, the goal