SmaylaRoad & trail journals

On foot · GR 5, Chablais · June 2023

The GR 5, from Saint-Gingolph to Lac Vert

Goal GR 5: a first three-day stretch, from the shore of Lake Geneva at Saint-Gingolph to Lac Vert, via Novel, Neuteu, the Col de Bise, the Pas de la Bosse, Chapelle d'Abondance and the Col de Bassachaux. In all, nearly 49 kilometres and 3,645 metres of climbing.

Date
June 2023
Distance
48.9 km
Elevation gain
3,645 m
Route
Saint-Gingolph → Lac Vert · 3 days
Last view of Lake Geneva

The route · indicative

From Lake Geneva to Chapelle d'Abondance

Ibex and passes

A drink by the lake, watching the Belle Époque paddle steamers, before tackling the first 600 metres up to Novel on a climbing forest track. The start from Novel is superb; we speed up so the clouds don't catch us.

A fascinating little peak keeps us company all the way up to the chalets of Neuteu. Then the bet is won: the ibex and the lake in the same photo, and the local king watching us approach without moving. A last view of Lake Geneva, heading for the Mediterranean. After the Col de Bise, down again to climb the Pas de la Bosse, then a laughing break below the Cornettes and the night at Chapelle d'Abondance.

Belle Époque steamer on Lake Geneva
Emmanuelle and Christian at the start
Pasture above Novel
The little peak above the valley
The Neuteu chalets
A last look at the little peak
Curious ibex
Ibex lying among the stones
Last view of Lake Geneva
Emmanuelle and Christian at the pass
Emmanuelle at the top of a pass
Grassy slopes below the pass
Christian at the Pas de la Bosse
Break below the Cornettes

To Lac Vert

The Col de Bassachaux and the storm

Leaving Chapelle d'Abondance, a look back at the previous day's Pas de la Bosse and at a pretty waterfall. Mont de Grange still white in the distance, gentians, fine endless paths, a detour to avoid dangerous snowfields.

At last the Col de Bassachaux, with its view over Lac de Montriond, as the clouds roll in. Lac Vert is signposted, and so is the storm: we arrive in the rain, the refuge is closed, and we shelter under the eaves. In early June, at 1,900 metres, the lake is anything but green. We're exhausted, but the stretch is done.

The Pas de la Bosse from Chapelle d'Abondance
Pretty waterfall at the start
Gentians facing Mont de Grange
The path to the Col de Bassachaux
Lac de Montriond from the pass
Emmanuelle on the climb
Lac Vert still under snow