SmaylaRoad & trail journals

On foot · Leukerbad · October 2026

The Gemmiweg, up the cliff

A village nestled at the foot of a huge cirque of cliffs, and a mule track climbing them in zigzags. Emmanuelle had walked it in August 2013 with her father.

Date
October 2026
Distance
11 km
Elevation gain
1,112 m
Walking time
3 h 25 min
Pass
Gemmi · 2,350 m
The Gemmi cliffs

The route · indicative

The climb

Goethe, Twain and us

From below, Christian wonders where on earth the path can go. Yet the Gemmiweg, a historic track of about 4.6 kilometres and nearly 970 metres of climbing, winds up the wall, wide, perfectly maintained and secured.

Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso all used it. On this 5 October it is scorching in the cliff: shorts and T-shirts. Until the top, where the icy wind reminds us you can go from sauna to freezer in minutes.

The Gemmi cliffs
Christian at the foot of the walls
Gemmiweg hairpins
Christian in the cleft
Rocky gorge
The path and Leukerbad
Glacier above the plateau

The plateau

The dry lake and the terrace

The plateau isn't as dreary as remembered: a glacier, harsh and grand alpine scenery. The Daubensee, however, is dry over nine tenths of its surface.

A final spritz at the brand-new Gemmi Lodge, its terrace hanging over the void and Leukerbad. A fine example of tourist infrastructure that truly enhances a place.

Path towards Kandersteg
The almost dry Daubensee
The Daubensee under clouds
Lake shore
Leukerbad from the pass
View down from the cable car