SmaylaRoad & trail journals

On foot · South Iceland · August 2017

The Fimmvörðuháls, between two glaciers

Thirty kilometres on foot from Þórsmörk to Skógar, between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull: green canyons, the red slopes of the 2010 craters, snowfields in August, then the Skógá and its waterfalls.

Date
August 2017
Distance
30 km
Route
Þórsmörk → Skógar
Valleys and glacier from the trail

The route · indicative

The climb

From the valley of the gods

The path leaves Þórsmörk through moss-lined gorges, then climbs onto ridges with views over the valleys, their braided rivers and, in the distance, the glacier tongues.

The higher you go, the more the green recedes. The landscape turns mineral, brown and black, with the glaciers closing in on both sides.

Mossy gorge leaving Þórsmörk
Green canyon on the Fimmvörðuháls
Valleys and glacier from the trail
A glacial valley below

The pass and the descent

Volcanoes, snowfields and waterfalls

At the pass, snow still lies in the middle of August, between the red slopes of the craters born in the 2010 eruption. A signpost points to Skógar one way and Þórsmörk the other: halfway, between the two glaciers.

The descent then follows the Skógá, one waterfall after another, some double, one with its rainbow, down to the great falls of Skógafoss. Thirty kilometres between volcanoes, glaciers and waterfalls.

Snowfield in a lava gully
The plateau between the glaciers
Red slopes and snow at the pass
Snow and red crater
Skógar – Þórsmörk signpost
A Skógá waterfall and its rainbow
Double waterfall in the gorge
The Skógá between mossy rocks
Skógá rapids in the sun