SmaylaRoad & trail journals

On foot · Ossola, Italy · September 2026

Alpe Devero and Lake Codelago

The day after San Domenico, the next valley over: Devero. A winter Magic Pass destination that intrigued us. A road that never ends, then a gem.

Date
September 2026
Distance
10.5 km
Elevation gain
362 m
Walking time
3 h 13 min
Path and bilberries by the lake

The route · indicative

Arriving

Improbable and incredible

First impression: it's so far! And who would come skiing here from Switzerland, for one chairlift and two drag lifts? But on a Monday the car park is almost empty, we park right at the top at the entrance to the valley, and it's love at first sight.

A waterfall between two rock walls, a wide grassy plateau, larch forests and enchanting stone hamlets with flower-filled balconies and slate roofs, beneath rocks towering majestically over this little corner of paradise.

Waterfall between two rock walls
Chapel and wooden chalet
Stream and stone hamlet
Stone house by the stream
Hamlet below the peaks
Flower-decked chalet and fountain
Crampiolo and its stone houses

The loop

Around the lake

The loop runs through Crampiolo and then along Lake Codelago, a deep water-green, between reddening bilberries and pines clinging to the rocks, facing a granite pyramid.

About ten kilometres at the pace of Emmanuelle's father, who once again walked the whole thing. The family photos stay in the album; here, the landscapes.

Lake Codelago
Larches by the turquoise lake
Path and bilberries by the lake
Granite pyramid above the lake
Lone pine on a rock
Christian facing the lake
The lake and the peak in autumn