SmaylaRoad & trail journals

Abroad · July 2018

Québec and the Gaspé, all the way to Percé Rock

Two weeks in Québec as a threesome: a lake with friends, the Mauricie, Charlevoix and the Saguenay Fjord, Tadoussac in the mist, then the Gaspé all the way to Percé Rock.

When
July 2018
Stops
Lac Saint-Joseph · Québec City · Percé
Highlight
A helicopter flight
Encounter
A fox cub by the road
Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island

Before the road

Lac Saint-Joseph and the old town

A few wonderful days on the shores of Lac Saint-Joseph, with friends who know how to welcome guests: water, forested shores, a white wake behind the boat.

An evening in Old Québec too, in the lanes of Petit-Champlain, with the Château Frontenac watching over the lit-up roofs.

Montreal from Mount Royal
Wake on Lac Saint-Joseph
Lac Saint-Joseph and its wooded shores
Petit-Champlain and the Château Frontenac
A curious squirrel

Mauricie and Charlevoix

Lakes, forests and a fjord

Always magical to be off on these adventures as a threesome, between fits of laughter and discoveries. An outfitter's camp by a lake, canoeing and kayaking, then La Mauricie National Park and a hike among the bears, who were probably too hot to take an interest in us.

Then up the Chemin du Roy to La Malbaie. The Acropole-des-Draveurs trail in the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie is superb, its 880 m descent much less so. Then Port-au-Persil, the Saguenay Fjord, a swim in the fjord and, for want of a bear, a raccoon.

Sunset over Lac Blanc
A floatplane at the dock
A lake in the Mauricie
A mirror river in the forest
La Mauricie National Park
End of the day on the lake
Flowers by the St. Lawrence
The Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie
Wild roses by the fjord
The Saguenay Fjord
Canoes by the lake
A lighthouse on the rocks
The fjord under the clouds

Tadoussac and Rivière-du-Loup

Mist, a whale and dunes

The first grey day: the beluga did not show itself in Baie Sainte-Marguerite, but a fin whale rewarded our seven kilometres, and Tadoussac in the mist was enchanting.

The next day, a ghostly lighthouse, incredible dunes, the ferry and a sunset from the hotel room.

The little chapel of Tadoussac
Tadoussac in the mist
A ghostly lighthouse in the fog
The dunes by the river
Fireweed above the St. Lawrence
Sunset over the river

The Gaspé

Rivers, forests and lupins

Then the road heads east. Clear rivers rolling over pebbles, firs as far as the eye can see, cabins set by the water, a waterfall hidden in the forest.

By the roadside a fox cub comes to see who is passing. The lupin fields are in bloom, mauve and pink, and white lighthouses with red roofs announce the sea.

River, pebbles and blue flowers
A Gaspé river mirroring the firs
Meander and cabin by the water
A waterfall in the forest
A curious fox cub
Field of lupins
A white and red lighthouse

Percé

The rock standing in the sea

And then it appears, first far away on the blue horizon: Percé Rock, a huge stone ship moored opposite Bonaventure Island. Up close, from the heights, it towers over the village and its bay.

To finish, the region is seen from above, by helicopter: the rock becomes a tiny island on a silver sea, and the Gaspé coast unrolls its beaches and points.

Percé Rock in the distance
Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island
Percé, its rock and the bay
Red cliff above Percé
The rock seen from the sky
The Gaspé coast from the helicopter

Back to Québec City

Isle-aux-Coudres and the old town

The way back goes through Isle-aux-Coudres, its marshes and mills, then a last night in Québec City, a little gem of a town, for a final stroll below the Château Frontenac.

Marsh on Isle-aux-Coudres
A waterfall seen from above
The Château Frontenac